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Friday 22-Apr-2016
雲吞麵

金像獎,一套《十年》,城中熱話,由電影圈辣到飲食界,雲吞麵都拖落水。

 

老實,《十年》我無看過,不敢多口。但講到「話雲吞麵係最好餐廳,你服唔服?」的話,又真的有排拗。

 

這種對雲吞麵的質疑牽涉幾個問題。

 

第一:主觀。口味這回事,人人有異,有人喜歡咖哩,有人嫌重口味;有人鍾意食素,有人無肉不歡。直接的一句質問只能反映林建岳先生個人並非雲吞麵lover,而其他雲吞麵愛好者可能真的覺得雲吞麵是最好的,那麼一句「我服」就能推翻主觀立場了。

 

第二:Too general。雲吞麵舖,是一個統稱,是一個食店的種類,樓下的麥奀記是雲吞麵,連鎖的平價雲吞生也是雲吞麵,有些茶記都有雲吞麵賣。那應該如何比較呢?是「有雲吞麵賣的舖頭」還是「雲吞麵」的比較?如果是舖頭的話,也要考慮環境、衛生、服務、雲吞麵種類等等。單是雲吞麵,則要比較份量、價錢、味道之類。那我們在比較甚麼呢?

 

比店好比食物好,先要選當中的最強,再拿去跟其他食店/食品比較。所以,這種assumption太general,唔服。

 

第三:不公平。假設林先生想拿雲吞麵跟其他食品比較並得出「雲吞麵不可能是最好食品」的結論,那麼我們必需讓雲吞麵與其他參賽選手有公平的比較,而非透過一種疑似general assumption的說話將其排除在外。誰說雲吞麵不能是最好的?原因何在?不夠貴?食材隨處可見?這種預設不公平的比較直接說了一句:雲吞麵不入流。並向曾經推介過不少雲吞麵的米芝蓮評審狠狠打一巴掌。

 

雲吞麵在香港的地位,和英國fish and chips類似:四圍都有得食,但不是個個師傅都煮得好。一些英國頂級餐廳也有供應這種平凡不過的fish and chips,令這種本來屬於working class的口味變成英國以至全世界聞名的英國招牌菜式。

 

菜式雖然簡單,但學問不少-如何選鱈魚,應該配醋還是Tartar sauce,都有一番討論。連食神都話越簡單越難煮:雖材料做法極其普通,但因烹飪者用心之真切,讓食客吃地感天動地、蕩氣迴腸,百般滋味齊上心頭,宛若初戀再現。

 

戴返頭盔先:我沒有看過《十年》,不懂影評,但雲吞麵一句的確got my attention。先放低對林先生的既有觀感或對《十年》的印象,純粹用critical thinking解讀一下雲吞麵的事。BTW,我食雲吞麵一定係雲吞河走荵,最好食沒有之一。what do you think?



圖片:www.noodlestar.ca

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