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Friday 15-Apr-2016
紳士教室2 如何分辨真‧牛津鞋

講起皮鞋,以前我讀寄宿學校時只會穿最簡單的黑皮鞋,不太講究。但人大了,就要學會挑選皮鞋之道。別小看一雙鞋的影響力,皆因它可反映穿者的品味,甚至個性。要成為真正的紳士,一對得體的皮鞋絕不能少。

 

很多人都習慣將男士皮鞋統稱作牛津鞋(Oxford Shoes),但其實要細分的話還有德比鞋(Derby Shoes)、Monk Strap、Blucher、Loafer等,各有特色。


牛津鞋是眾多紳士皮鞋中最正式的鞋款。有看過去年上映的電影《皇家特工:間諜密令》(Kingsman),應該會記得戲中一句有趣的暗號 "Oxfords, not Brogues." 大家可能會好奇:到底牛津鞋跟牛津有何關係?話說在17世紀,牛津大學學生因不喜歡高筒靴的束縛而進行改革,引入當年尚未流行的低筒皮鞋作學生鞋,因而產生了「牛津鞋」。牛津鞋最大特色就是兩側鞋翼的尾部與整個鞋面相連,採用封閉式襟片(enclosed lacing)設計,外形非常典雅。

 

原本牛津鞋面的通花其實是有實際用途。17世紀位於愛爾蘭與蘇格蘭的農夫會在鞋面上打孔,方便他們在泥土上走動時排水及排污。不過來到現在,通花設計則演變成裝飾元素,令鞋面更添華麗。

 

牛津鞋配襯普通西裝、燕尾服(Tuxedo)或便服都十分得宜,因此在正式和半正式場合都很受歡迎。一對素面黑色牛津鞋是男士出席正式場合必備的入門鞋款。

 

而大家最常跟牛津鞋混為一談的就是德比鞋 。其實德比鞋最大特徵是它的開放式襟片(open lacing),鞋舌與鞋面屬同一塊皮革;兩側的鞋翼不像牛津鞋般與鞋面相連,因此更寬鬆、舒適,亦適合腳形較寬的男士。德比鞋可用來出席半正式或較輕鬆的社交場合,配搭卡其褲(chinos)或牛仔褲亦可。德比鞋也是上班族必備款式,尤其卡其色或淺啡色的通花德比鞋,非常百搭。

 

最後給大家一個小貼士:想改變造型又不想買新鞋,最簡單的方法就是多買幾種不同顏色的鞋帶,深綠色、淺灰、或深灰色都是低調又易搭之選。

 

圖片: www.revistagq.com

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