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Monday 24-Apr-2017
英識灑脫

英國天氣變化莫測,尤其秋冬季節總下著細雨,讓人對這地方又愛又恨,甚至鬱悶得要借音樂發洩。英國樂隊Travis經典作《Why does it always rain on me?》,靈感就是來自主音hometown格拉斯哥的天氣。 英國大部分日子都下細雨。難得陽光普照的日子,幾乎所有local都會去室外捉緊機會曬日光浴。所以,trench coat (乾濕褸)是英國人衣櫃必備。有件乾濕褸,即使出門突然落雨也不怕。我第一件乾濕褸,也是在英國購入。

 

要數乾濕褸品牌,大家首先想起的應該是Burberry。個人不喜歡名過其實的牌子。要揀,一定係Mackintosh。

 

此Mackintosh不同彼Macintosh。不是蘋果mac機,是英國風褸經典品牌。

 

去年在英國又買了件trench coat,即mac coat進化版。我不是在Mackintosh store購入,反而是路過Monocle Shop看上這件外套。當時剛抵埗兩天天氣轉冷,正想買件薄褸。看到Monocle架上的Mackintosh便買了下來。Dark olive顏色很百搭,隨便配深色牛仔褲已經成為我秋冬常穿的外套之一。

Mackintosh是防水外套的始祖,歷史遠比Burberry悠久。當年Mackintosh在兩層布之間塗上薄薄的橡膠,再人手用熱滾輪烘乾,製成世上第一塊防水布料。這種高溫處理的防水物料(Vulcanised Rubber),簡直是英國人恩物,他們稱之為mac coat。所以mac在英國泛指防水乾濕褸,不是mac機。

 

講開又講,這品牌的發源地在格拉斯哥。Charles Mackintosh大概跟Travis主音一樣受不了蘇格蘭無間斷落雨,才靈機一觸發明這種防水布料。

 

跟Monocle店員Alastair講起,這種防水技術要100%人手,所以每件Mac都是Mackinstosh老師傅親手縫製。現時品牌款式比早年多元化,但仍以實用為主,設計一點不花巧。欣賞Mackintosh這種堅持,簡約且低調,比Burberry更timeless。Alastair亦說,Monocle正是欣賞Mackintosh這種代代相傳的工藝,才會代理Mackintosh。

如何定義trench coat?領口有兩個扣環 (throat latch),防止頸部被冷風突襲。另外,袖口亦有belted cuffs,可調節大小,雨水便不會從袖口流入弄濕衣服。​

 

除了英國,Mackintosh在日本亦大受歡迎,因為品牌的簡約設計跟日本人品味非常貼近。近年Mackintosh更被日本公司收購。他們的sub brand Mackintosh Philosophy非常多元化,主打年輕人市場,將老牌英國工藝帶上另一層次。 英文有句成語叫When it rains, it pours,即禍不單行。不過Mackintosh的成功,正因他們不只會ask why,還會問自己why not,將負面想法變成商機,成為英國人心目中的經典。

 


本文作者為英識教育創辦人Samuel Chan。

原文:Menxpat男士時尚網  ​http://www.menxpat.com/post/18527

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Samuel Chan, the winner of Alumni Awards 2017, is the founder of Britannia. He had studied in the UK since the age of 9 for 15 years and achieved his master degree in International Political Economy at University of Warwick. Now he shares his experiences and professional advice in education columns in Hong Kong’s major newspapers.

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Mabel Chan is the Principal Consultant of Britannia. Having studied in both the UK and the US, she is an expert in school matching for overseas education. She writes education columns for Sing Tao Daily and The Standard, and answers questions arising from parents and students patiently.

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